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Written by Frank Sutherland, Gannett News ServiceResearch by the AC-Nielsen Co. shows that for each of the last three years, riesling has been the fastest growing white wine grape sold in the country. Over that three-year period, riesling sales have increased 54 pe
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Monday, 29 September 2008 00:00 |
Research by the AC-Nielsen Co. shows that for each of the last three years, riesling has been the fastest growing white wine grape sold in the country.
Over that three-year period, riesling sales have increased 54 percent. That obviously pleased Washington state producers, who make more riesling than any other region of the country. Part of the reason for those increases probably centers on a younger generation looking for wines with less oak.
Another reason may be the emergence of more dry rieslings from Washington instead of the very sweet rieslings produced in the 1980s and 1990s. The proper balance of acidity and sugar can produce noble, food-friendly wines - a fact European riesling makers have known for centuries.
We compared five Washington state rieslings in a blind tasting.
» 2006 Columbia Winery Cellarmaster's Columbia Valley Riesling, $13.99.
In the aroma, we found dusty fruit, apples, pomegranates, herbs and a hint of oil. This wine tickled the tongue with flavors of ripe McIntosh apples and a bit of brininess. It was well balanced, not too sweet. It ranked first in our tasting.
» 2007 Hogue Columbia Valley Riesling, $8.99. There were lots of scents: lemon-lime, peaches, nectarines, pears, gooseberries, minerals, oil, cinnamon and white pepper. In the mouth, the wine was dry, mouthwatering and juicy with citrus flavors. It had a light texture that was almost effervescent. Ranked second in our tasting, it was a nice alternative to the Columbia Winery at $5 a bottle less.
» 2007 Flying Fish Washington Riesling, $14.99.
We discovered aromas of cotton candy, apricots, lemon peel, peaches, tangerines and baby aspirin. Not as bright as the others, but with more weight on the tongue, this wine had nice flavors of apples with the acidity and fruit in balance. Tasters thought this wine reminded them of apple cider.
» 2007 Silver Lake Roza Rattlesnake Hills Riesling, $10.99.
The aroma reminded us of unripe pears, white grape juice and white cranberries. The wine's sugary sweet character made it richer and more viscous than the others.
» 2006 Milbrandt Traditions Washington Riesling, $14.99.
A subtle, restrained nose offered melon, petrol and a dusty minerality. We found flavors of citrus peel and mealy apples that were somewhat bitter in the aftertaste. This was the driest wine in the tasting, but it was also slightly out of balance.
Contact Frank Sutherland at
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
. Frank, former editor of The Tennessean, has a wine-tasting panel that includes representatives from five wine distributors in Nashville, a wine collector, a sommelier and food writer Thayer Wine. The column appears Mondays. Prices may vary by region.
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